Blog 1.27: Days 35 and 36

October 26th and 27th

Flat, wooded, coastal plain.

That's what this area is all about.

While there's nowt wrong wi' that, and it's certainly not unattractive,  it becomes a case of 'seen one bit, seen it all'.

And so, Wednesday was move-on day again, and we decided it would be inland, somewhat, this time.

Heading up the coast, initially, we found ourselves on the longest stretches of straight road I think I've ever driven. And to think I used to think the Straight Mile was something. Here, the first one was about 13km (admittedly with the slightest kink in the middle), and the second stretch measured 13km again, but this time with a random roundabout halfway along which had been recently constructed for no apparent reason.

26km, with barely a turn of the steering wheel and nowt to look at but endless pine plantations.

You can see why we moved on.

Eventually we picked up the Bordeaux road meaning we were heading east, skirted that, and stopped off at Libourne's Lidl for fresh supplies. From there we dropped onto twisting country roads through lovely villages, and endless vines, until we reached our day's goal of St Méard-de-Gurçon.

But not without another protracted reverse manouevre.

Our night stop was on the far side of the village. And the road through the village was closed for resurfacing.

Of course it was...

However,  after a lengthy diversion we found our goal - Le Jolibois (Mais oui, Rodders?).

This is another of what are becoming some of our favourite places to stay for a night - a France Passion. This one, though,  is set among its own vineyards and produces the most delicious wines (M tells me!).

Home for the night

For my part, the obligatory tasting - after being noisily greeted by the most beautiful dog - consisted of grape juice. Slightly sweet for my taste, but the flavour. Wow. Just delicious.

Needless to say we bought a couple of bottles of that, plus a five litre bag-in-box Rosé, and a couple of other bottles of something alcoholic.

A slightly squiffy Mandi is very, very easy to sell to.

Our new friend

They produce other comestibles too, and have a really delightful restaurant, but sadly this is only open for the lunch serving at the moment, and we were too late. Next time...

This morning, Thursday, we considered moving on to Bergerac, which is reckoned to be well worth visiting. However, the only suitable Aire is about 3km out of town and we didn’t fancy riding the bikes in and securing them, or pushing them round town. We ruled it out, but then M spotted that Perigueux is not too much further on and generally in the desired direction of travel - and it has a convenient Aire.

So convenient, in fact, that from the van I can see the sheer cliff of the far bank of the Dordogne, along (the near bank of) which there is a footpath that leads one to the city centre after a gentle ten minute stroll.

Dordogne and the Cathedral

Although of a rather different character from Carcassonne, Perigueux has just become a straight contender for the My Favourite French City Award.

It's gorgeous - and it's hard to imagine that Bergerac would beat it.

Cakes and Darjeeling and coffee were taken in one of the squares, and I somehow managed to build a collection of photos of ancient narrow streets and alleyways.

It really is a 'must visit'.

And we will again. Tomorrow.

Mileage so far: 2514