Blog 4.4 - Looking West
- Steve Kimberley
- Sep 18, 2023
- 5 min read
Friday 15th September 2023 (happy birthday cuz)
Today should see us make it to Chalon-sur-Saône, a city we visited during the Spring tour during the mad dash from the miserably cold and wet (and snowy) Germany to sunny Spain.

And we did (make it).
The aire is much the same; noisy, but totally free, and offering a pleasant walk into the city centre.
This time, though, we took a left over the river bridge onto the island just to see if we'd missed much last time.

We hadn't. It's rather pleasant, but there's not much there, but for a few bars and restaurants and residential. We did, however, stop for a coffee outside a Tabac, and excellent it was too.

Crossing back over to the main city centre, we explored more than on our previous visit, having more time.

It's as lovely as we remembered, and we eventually ended up at the same teashop for a milkshake (me) and an ice tea (admin). Both were delicious - but you certainly pay for location! We don't object to that though as long as what you pay for is good stuff.

It could take all day in the city centre to fully take it all in, but it was hot, so we decided to head 'home' and promptly got confused, and thoroughly lost, by the crappy illogical and exceedingly unhelpful walking directions on Google Maps. When will I learn to just follow the map and my instincts?
Saturday 16th September 2023
And it's raining.
Quite a lot.
Not sure where this came from, cos last time I looked at the Beeb Weather app it seemed to think there may be a few scattered showers. Looking at the grey pudding that hangs above and as far as the eye can see, though, I reckon this is in for many an hour.
Two miserable watts coming in from the solar panel too. Not great...
Ah well, we'll make a move shortly (it's 9am) and at least the dc-dc charger will throw 20 amps in, so the pile should be pretty near charged when we settle again.
We're heading for Paray-le-Monial, which apparently is a small town with a very decent aire, and an impressive Abbey.
We shall see.

It is, indeed, a very nice aire, with large level spaces and water and hook-ups if you need them. We don't.

As a bonus that grey wet blanket of grimness that greeted us at breakfast time, receded in the rear-view mirrors, and we arrived to (mostly) sun and (some) cloud. Much better.

The approach to town via the river bridge affords a splendid view of the Abbey,

which is equally imposing from the other angle.

And the town's not too shabby either.
We stopped for a lemon tea and an ice cream at a small bio shop/café.

Like at most of the businesses the proprietor was dressed in mediaeval style clothes,

and it soon became obvious that there was some kind of festival on in town,
with dancing and various traditional games scattered around - while there was also a wedding in progress.

Really lovely.
However, the weather was shortly to turn sour, totally against Aunty Beeb's forecast, with the increasing rumbling of thunder in the distance.

The forecast at 3.45pm

The reality at 3.45pm
How could they get it quite that wrong? Happily we just made it back to the van with very slightly damp shoulders just as it decided to really throw it down. Our luck's holding, I guess.
Sunday 17th September 2023
We decided to stay another night in Paray; always an indicator of how much we like a place.
By the time we rose, after a bit of a lie-in for the first time in a few days, the clouds of yesterday were but a memory and the sunshine was in full swing.
In fact, it's hot again.
We continued lazing until after lunch, apart from attending to a few chores around the place, and finally went for a wander at about 3pm, by which time the adjacent car and coach park was fairly well populated. The festival is obviously a weekend-long affair.
We took a detour via the park, next to the aire.

It's huge, and very pleasant, and gives access to the Canal du Centre which skirts the town.

We strolled along and turned off the footpath

and into town where the festivities were in full swing. The same dancing troupe, expanded in numbers, were doing their thing again, but this time we bypassed them in search of a drink. By the time we'd finished, they'd been supplanted by a group of what I'd describe as 'wandering minstrels'.
They were fantastic; so talented. We stayed for probably half an hour and enjoyed every moment even if we could barely follow what was being said or sung!

Walking back to the van, the rumble of thunder could be heard once again, but this time, fortunately, it came to naught.
Curry for tea. Admin's a bleddy marvel!
Monday 18th September 2023
Moving on again, this time to Lapeyrouse, a small village to the SE of Montluçon.

This time, for the first time on the trip, we've elected to do a night (possibly two) on a campsite.
It's 19€ per night, including a 10 amp hook up, laundry, a swimming pool(!) and the holy of holies, showers...
It'll give us the chance to fully reset, which is overdue to be honest. The shower in the van is useable, but not ideal, so we're both looking forward to long, hot sluicing-downs.
Well, that was the plan. It was more of a long warm sluicing (if you run the water for about three minutes first) but it was still good, and very welcome.
The laverie's washing machine was spot on though, so we now have another Chinese Laundry situation - which is good as I was down to my last T-shirt this morning.

Time, then, to settle down for the rest of the afternoon with iced lemon tea, and Kindle.
And again - that was the plan, and it was going well until about 4.30 when, seemingly out of nowhere, the wind brewed up big-style, and down came the pleut.
Sod it. We may as well be on an aire now, having had to pull the awning in (it's not safe to leave it out in strong winds even if it's pegged and guyed well, as ours always is on the odd occasions we can deploy it. I don't want to risk it having heard some of the horror stories.
So, it's back into the van, with all the washing hanging about our heads (fortunately nearly dry for the most part), and coffee!
According to the Met Office app (I've given up on the Beeb one in France) it's all due to blow over by 7pm, and the sun will shine...
We'll see, once more, shall we?
Mileage so far: 1039


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